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Tender At The Bone: Growing Up At The Table (1999)

Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table (1999)

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Rating
4.05 of 5 Votes: 5
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ISBN
0767903382 (ISBN13: 9780767903387)
Language
English
Publisher
broadway books

About book Tender At The Bone: Growing Up At The Table (1999)

I’m not normally a big fan of books about food. They always leave me cursing my limited culinary abilities and hungry for foods that are far outside of my price range, not to mention excluded by various personal dietary choices. I likely never would have picked up anything by Ruth Reichl had I not found myself uncharacteristically bookless while lounging in the park this past weekend and in need of diversion. Fortunately a friend had a copy of this deep in the bottom of her bag and I was able to while away an afternoon in my preferred manner.A book that is part biography, part paean to the glory of the kitchen, and part cookbook, Tender At The Bone is one of the quickest reads I’ve had all year. Ruth Reichl is editor of Gourmet magazine and her long years in the magazine industry are evident in her writing style. Chapters are short and to the point (no frippery for her) and punctuated by a recipe of whatever delicious creation she has been reminiscing about. These vignettes follow Ruth and her lifelong relationship with food- from her mother’s inability to tell when food has spoiled to her first gig waitressing to her membership in a Berkeley restaurant collective to a delicious and educational trip through French wine country. Initially I was put off by the early scenes of her learning to cook from her family’s servants (scenarios of privilege such as these always tend to fan the flames of my class resentment) but I can get over the fact that, trite though they are, this is life as this woman has experienced it. On the whole the story is better off when Ruth allows herself to be overcome with the delight she feels in food, several descriptions had me salivating like some Pavlovian pooch and wishing I knew people who could cook these fantastic confections for me.Like I said, it is a quick read that won’t stick with you long (though the recipes may), but enjoyable in a pinch. I doubt I’ll rush out and buy the rest of her books, but should one fall into my hands on a plane ride or another sunny day, I wouldn’t complain.

"Storytelling, in my family, was highly prized. While my father walked home from work he rearranged the events of his day to make them more entertaining, and my mother could make a trip to the supermarket sound like an adventure. If this required minor adjustments of fact, nobody much minded: it was certainly preferable to boring your audience."I have friends who will not read memoirs, because they are sure that the authors have manipulated the truth, even made things up to be more entertaining. Reichl admits that the facts have been tweeked here and there, but that the essential truth, as she remembers it, is between the pages of this autobiography. It is entertaining, and I can recommend it.I read the third Reichl book, Garlic and Sapphires, first. I loved it, spoke of it, and a friend gave me Tender at the Bone to read. Both books weave together Reichl's relationships, her various jobs, and her passion for food. This first book take her from childhood with a bipolar mother, through her college days, and on to her first job as a restaurant critic. Included are lots of recipes that have me almost wanting to enter the kitchen again - there's Berry Tart, Fried Chicken, Pate, Tomatillo Stew, Bouef Bourghignonne, and some great sounding brownies. In fact, I think I'll make the brownies today!

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Charming and amusing account of how food critic Reichl got tuned into cooking through her family experiences and explorations in her young adult period. Her manic depressive mother was hopeless as a cook, even dangerous, as when she wasn’t using canned ingredients, she used bargain foods dangerously past their expiration dates. Instead, her inspiration came from an elderly aunt and her maid. What she learned at an early age she used to great advantage in her teen years to draw a good social crowd around food. Experience with French cuisine from a sojourn at a boarding school and with Caribbean food from a college room-mate put her on a path that led to working in an upscale vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco while essentially living in commune with her husband. The book is fun because she places recipes in the context of her life when they had a big impact, from simple potato salad and deviled eggs to Beef Bougoinon. The approach is homey and soothing, although not as exciting as the way sensual dishes are placed in the fictional “Like Water for Chocolate” or as entertaining as the accounts of challenging preparations for Child dishes in the memoir “Julie and Julia”.
—Michael

This was enjoyable, a quick read, and it kept me interested. I was acquainted with Reichl's memoirs because my niece Poulami gave me her favorite, Garlic and Sapphires for xmas in 2008, and then Not Becoming My Mother in 2009. Those books are all similar in several ways. Like Diamonds and Sapphires, it has lots of recipes, and it is also a story of "not becoming my mother" although the latter from an older and more sympathetic standpoint.I think those are both stronger books. Still, is a romp to follow Reichl's adventures growing up in NYC, going to Catholic school in Montreal, the New York art scene and then moving out to Berkeley in early 70s. Family tragedy-- especially her mother's manic depressive illness is at the center of the story, but Ruth emerges her own person, seemingly unscathed. In this skillful telling it is her passion for food and cooking that centers her, and we can see how she becomes the person we recognize in her adult career.
—MaryJo

I read this before, quite a few years ago now, but someone borrowed my copy and never returned it. When I saw this copy at the Library Sale I was happy to be able to buy it and read it again.Ruth Reichl is (or was at the time the book was published) the restaurant critic for the NY Times. In this book she chronicles growing up with her bipolar mother who often serves food that is going or is bad and Ruth takes on the role of protecting the guests. Ruth has some good role models for cooking though; a maid named Mrs. Peavy, and her great-aunt Birdie's maid Alice. Pretty soon Ruth is cooking as a form of therapy and she is good at it. She loves food and is willing to eat almost anything which endears her to other people who love food. And cooking for people stands in pretty well for a lack of being popular with boys. Everywhere Ruth lives the house is full of people who come to eat. I loved the part covering the early 70's and that book, Diet for a Small Planet. I cooked quite a bit from that book and the food was, as Ruth says, dreary. I wish Ruth much happiness and success and hope that any problems she faces she is able to deal with.
—Chana

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